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Thursday, 29 September 2011

Kochi - Slow food in god’s own country

Just as we were starting to tell ourselves that we had enough of India (the tuk-tuk drivers and souvenirs shop sellers in Agra can be quite persistent), it was time for us to catch our plane to the South of India: Kerala.


Kerala, or God’s Own Country as Locals like to refer to it, is another planet altogether: the streets of Kochi have obvious traces from the 4 centuries of European colony so that we actually feel like the small streets of colonial Bogota. It’s more, unlike Agra or Delhi, here street dogs don’t chase holy cows to finish off some decaying rubbish on the streets since there are no street dogs, no cows and no rubbish… Incidentally, Kerala is apparently the state with the highest literacy rate and the lowest infant mortality of India!
So we quickly realize that we will enjoy our few days here not doing much, just walking the quiet streets and enjoying cappuccinos and ice teas in trendy art cafés.

Caro is just about to order another piece of carrot cake in our favorite café, 
where we were at least twice a day.

To cool off from the heat of our first day, we go to the sea front to watch the activity and the famous huge fishing nets and the South-American-like churches.



  



Here men carry a typical cloth: 
they either let long or wrap around which looks a bit like a giant diper

Exploring the streets of Kochi on rented bikes

 




 
Local version of the Tata bus: no windows... 
actually pretty good for ventilation

Bus timetable at the station. Here the local language is different 
from the North also with another alphabet. Although it’s just spoken by 3% of India,
it still represents some 30 million people.

On our third day here we took a ferry ride (3c€) followed by a bus to the next beach.


Here people seem to enjoy as much taking photos of us as we do of them. Some of them do it discreetly from far, some kindly ask you if they can have a picture with you, and other come straight to your face (or to your legs: as we realized they seemed to enjoy taking Caro’s knees since she was the only person in the street we could actually see the knees) and take a close up without asking or saying anything.

On the way to the beach, this family kindly (almost ashamed in fact) asked us 
to have a picture with them, so we took the same one!

As much as we closed the season in North India, we are opening it in South India and the high season only starts in November. So we had bright blue sky, the whole beach to ourselves, and the water was probably 28 or 30°C warm.



Self-made tent to get a bit of shade.

Just 100m back from the beach are the so-called “backwaters”. It’s a network of canals, and lakes of calm sea waters.






One of the delicacies here is obviously sea food: but not fresh like the way we know it. As we ordered a fish and kilo of squid in this restaurant accompanied with pineapple juice, the waiter went off to the street. 10 min later he came back with fresh fish from the jetty and 2 pineapples from the market to prepare them.


Fresh fish arrival: restaurants come here to get it as customers order it! Actually you could even buy it yourself and bring it to the restaurant, they’d cook it for you.

Tuesday, 27 September 2011

Agra - Home to Taj Mahal

6:15 in the morning, we take an amazing fast train (140Km/h) to go to Agra, home to the famous Taj Mahal. 140 might seem you not that fast compared to the french TGV or german ICE, but considering that our speed travelling by bus is about 25Km/h, this is like heaven. In the train we get water, breakfast (served to your seat of course) and the news paper for FREE!

2 hours later we arrive in Agra and after checking in, go for a tour at Agra Fort, since the Taj is closed on friday, which was not bad since the town was really quiet on that day.

I'm amazed by the majesty of it's architecture dating back to the XVII century, when the mughals where in power. The funny thing is that for its builder, Emperor Shah Jahan who made it to his palace, it turned to be his jail at the end of his days, when his OWN SON emprisoned him here after taking over his trone! from here he would be able to see the Taj Mahal from afar, which he had built as a tomb for his wife! Quite a nice jail though!






On this first day we can spot the Taj from a nice rooftop restaurant and enjoy the city in the dusk







This boy is trying to get me into his family restaurant with WI-FI, which sounds always good when you have to update your blog and are far behind...he asks where I come from (usually after this question they will say that they have been to your country, name you a famous place and say something in your language), so I'm courious what he will say about Colombia....so when I tell him he smiles, thinks and says...people from his family had been to Colombia five times! but he fails the test since he can't say anything in spanish!
His place is sadly so bad that we have to refuse his nice offer


Next day, 6 am in the morning, we finally get to enter the Taj Mahal. Seen from the gate is already amazing!



This guy jumped into my picture to take a picture himself!



Taj in the morning light, from the side



Taj in the water


David Holding the Taj

You always see pictures of the Taj and from the pictures you can tell it's a nice building, but you just realize its splendour when you see it in real. it's just breath taking!

After about 3 hours in the Taj we go for a sightseeing of the "other" monuments. We stop at the so-called "Baby Taj", not expecting that it would be almost as beautiful as the Taj. 
This tomb was build before the Taj and even beeing smaller, the stone work is much more elaborated than in the Taj.








David is not happy when, after paying expensive entry tickets, he has to pay for someone to look after his shoes...especially because for tourist they charge 10 times the real price! But he has no choice and leaves his shoes not far from the shoe-watchman

David Barefoot



Time to leave, David takes his shoes and goes.....
and the guy: hey you "gringo", you didn't pay! but
David does as if it wasn't with him and the guy gives up!

At the end of the day we get to see the Taj from the less crowded river side, with buffalos swimming and nobody bothering you




For a close-up on the Taj Mahal check my blog: 

Caro

Monday, 26 September 2011

Back to Delhi


From Leh we flew back into crowded Delhi for one day on our way to Taj Mahal. It’s at least 5 C° cooler than the first day we arrived in Delhi, but it’s still extremely hot!
This time, we know exactly how it goes at New Delhi Station, so we ignore everyone that would try to speak to us and go directly to the hostel and restaurant street, called main bazaar, where we ask other backpackers for a good hostel. They take us to a nice place that is unfortunately full but right next to it there’s another one that is not bad. We leave our things there and go for a quick Delhi tour in one day.
What shocked us the most was the difference between above and underground Delhi:

ABOVEGROUND DELHI
Transportation means are mainly Rickshaws and motorbikes flowing through chaotic and dirty streets.






The whole family is packed onto the bike
helmet is the father’s privilege!


UNDERGROUND DELHI

Delhi underground is another story. The new metro is the pride of the people, although many of them can’t pay for it (or think they can’t: a ride through the city costs no more than on a rickshaw). Everything is sparkling clean, you can’t eat or drink and people behave actually like one would expect in a civilized city: no spitting and of course giving priority to pregnant women and disabled people.




We chat calmly with our nice neighbor, who gives us a metro map and is really happy to help foreigners. No tip asked! WOW…above ground it’s another story.

These pictures were taken right below the street pictures with rickshaws and a loooot of spitting…






SIGHTSEEING IN DELHI
We start our sightseeing in Old Delhi with the red fort and the mosque.


View from the red fort onto the street Chandni Chowk


Inside the red fort with its
majestic islamic architecture


The Jama Asjid Mosque, with an amazing view over the mosque’s 
courtyard, the city and the fort in thr background


The main “ablution” basin, where people
wash their feet before entering the mosque


People praying




Every bit of shade must be used!


We then headed to the Qutb (read “qutub”) Minar Complex, dating from the islamic rule in India. The most amazing thing here is the huge babel-like victory tower .We can’t get enough of it and stay until the sunset...

72.5m high!








One of the governors who followed Qutb-ud-din Aybak (it's commissioner) wanted to build a second tower that would be twice as high as the Qutb Minar. Sadly, this one was never finished!






Islamic gate

Sweating and looking like bummers (which is usually the case when you are backpacking), we end our busy day at a fancy restaurant in the british style neighborhood called connaught place in New Delhi, where I think we can enter just because we are western...Indian people here look much more fancy than this:


The place is expensive but we don’t mind paying extra for having our first western-flavour dinner of the trip.

The Connaught Place