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Thursday, 20 October 2011

Varanasi - on the banks of the holy river Ganges

We left on another train from Satna on a short (330 km) yet long (12 hours) ride to Varanasi.

During our wait in the station of Satna, cows could be seen everywhere around us....

...On the track...

...Waiting with the rest of the people...

...or cleaning the bins.

You would expect that such a sign would not be necessary on the waiting platform,
but believe me it is (although for those who can't read,
I'm not sure what is meant with this pictogram)

We arrived prepared in Varanasi, the Lonely planet and the other travelers had warned us: Varanasi is very dirty (even for Indian levels…!) and tuk-tuk drivers are the most annoying. So as we get off the train, we try our first trick which is to leave the station at the back of the station: here a few tuc-tuc drivers offer the ride to town (a couple of km) for 200 rupees and no way to bargain the price down! So we change our plans and cross the station to leave at the front and main gate, but walk right through the main parking without paying attention to anyone (here you have to imagine us forcing our way through a crowd of tuk-tuk drivers saying “hello Sir”, “excuse me Sir”, “where are you going Sir”, “how are you Sir”, “where are you from Sir” etc etc. ..) until we reach the main road. Here our first attempt is 80 rupees which we can bargain down to 60 rupees (1 Euro)… that’s more like it! But we’re not there yet, about 1 km before our destination, as the streets get really busy our driver tells us: ok, get off here, tuc-tuc not allowed pass this point (as he was saying this, obviously tuc-tucs were passing by in a non-stop flow). So that’s where we took our GPS out and told him: that’s not true, take the first left, keep going 1km and after the curve on the right… which obviously got us straight to where we wanted.

Varanasi is the India we know from Discovery Channel: people bathing in the river Ganges being holy, but also one of the most polluted in the world (levels of Bacteria are 5,000 above the levels they should be to bathe in). Appart from the sewers from the whole city (and obviously everyone upstream), that’s also where they throw the lepers etc, just so you get a picture of it… This being said, there’s really something about the banks of this river, specially as the night falls and large ceremonies are organized: a sort of way to wash their sins away. This is a very impressive and colourful event!










During the monsoon, the river rises by up to 20m,
leaving several meters of sticky mud on the steps of the banks.
Not all the mud was washed by the time we were there.

But even more impressive, are the other worldly open air incinerations of their deads, also on the banks of the river. Here there’s not much more than whispers and people from the lowest cast, moving around in order to get the fires burning.



Here people are coming out of the waters

On our second day here, we woke up a 5am in order to take a boat ride on the river and see the sunrise. Unfortunately, the day was cloudy, so we didn't get much of a view.


I had a try at paddling, but without success
(we were pretty much turning in circle)

Here the usual Japanese touris groupe with their mouth protection

David

Tuesday, 18 October 2011

Kajuraho - home to the "kamasutra" temples

India is such a big country! The distances are looong and even if you travel with fast trains, it will take some time to get from A to B!
This time we have to sleep at the airport again, since thenext day we are flying from Chennai (South east) to Mumbai (Center west) at5:40 a.m!

David finds always a way to get some sleep

From Mumbai we still have 1200km and 20 hours of train ahead us to get to Kajuraho, where we will see one of the most famous temples in India: the so called Kamasutra temples!

We arrive in the afternoon and stay at at the nice “yogiashram” hotel out of town, with a nice balcony and rooftop!



On the first day we rent some bikes and go for a city tour

Small temple in the old village

Buffalos bathing

Never touch a bottle or cup with your lips
(this is a golden rule to stay healthy while traveling here)

Man bathing on the "Ghats" or steps at the river

Next day 6 a.m. we go to the see the temples to see what is it, that all travelers have been talking about. The site is really amazing, with about 25 stone temples, 5 of which are renovated. It's like huge stone mountains when seen from afar, but when you get closer you get to appreciate the finest sculptures, depicting daily life here in the middle age and "also" some erotic reliefs, that actually represent just around 10 percent of the sculptures but are the most know feature about Kajuraho.







And well...they are very eye catching as you can see


But here we learn that these are not depictions of the kamasutra positions as a lot of people think in the west! The dynasty that built these temples believed in the union of man and wife as being divine and source of the creation of the universe. Depicting this kind of scenes was auspicious and was supposed to please the gods!
They also thought of women as being divine and built temples for the female goddesses called "the 64 yoginis". Here I am at a temple dedicated to them, the statues are missing...I hope they don't mind





We end the day doing some yoga for our overstrained backs!

Kakasana (The crow)

Dhanurasana (The arch)

Shirshasana (Headstand) - Caro

Shirshasana (Headstand) - David

For more photos on the architecture, you can check my architecture blog
http://n-movimiento.blogspot.com/2011/10/close-up-kajuraho-temples.html

Caro

Wednesday, 12 October 2011

Mamalapuram - archeology meets backpacker beach

After a tranquil night on the AC-train, we arrive at the small sea-side village of Mamalapuram just South of Chennai (Madras). The place is very quiet since we find out on our arrival that the season starts in one month (mmhh,... for some reason, all the places we arrive have the same problem...). We quickly understand why as the temperature reaches 30°C at 8am already and the thunder starts threatning.

The village is nice though and we quickly find out favourite restaurant in town "le yogi", suposedly Indian-French restaurant.

Appart from being a backpackers beach village (for those who've been there: it's like the Indian version of Taganga, Colombia), the place is famous for its monolith temples and sculptures: that's right: made from one piece of rock at its original location.


All these sculptures and temples are made from one single piece of stone!


Not hard to approach monkeys here



How long did it take to dig that temple out of this piece!!?



Of course, here and there you find signs of the holy cow...!